newsletter-new-02

The topic of this week's newsletter was fun to write. Ready to go to Jay for distribution. Then my sister called to see how I'm recuperating. During our conversation, she mentioned a couple of things about winterizing their home. Stop the presses! Save the "decorating" topic for a future issue! Sure, winterizing isn't a fun topic, but if you have "deferred maintenance" expenses because you didn't winterize, you won't have the money to decorate.

JoAnn said, "It's time to call the company to blow more insulation into the attic." Blown-in insulation is okay, but loses its effectiveness as it compacts from its own weight. Batt insulation is better, but it's still not the best solution. Both can absorb moisture from condensation and leaks, which then leads to microbial growth that can result in allergies and a sick building syndrome.

My first instinct was to recommend a soy-based spray foam insulation, but I would be negligent if I misinformed her, or my valued newsletter subscribers. So, I spent several hours doing online research, to get the answer from specialists -- not just salesmen who want to sell their products and services. It's not unusual for me to have 20 or more windows open when I'm researching products. Ultimately, it led to a great, informational conversation with Chris Porter of Biobased Systems, listed in Biobased Solutions' Newsletter. They have a great website, full of valuable information: http://www.biobasedsystems.net

Mr. Porter said that insulating the rafters with spray foam, in addition to other insulation that's on top of the ceiling, creates a new environment which must be treated as such. It is cheaper to blow in more cellulose. It's better, although more expensive initially, to pay a contractor to remove the old insulation, so new foam insulation can be applied. What are the advantages of soybean-based spray foam? First, let's compare the R-value, or the thermal resistance factor that determines how well a material holds back heat, then we'll compare the advantages and disadvantages, and your investment factor.

Cellulose loose-fill: R-2.5 per inch ($0.50 per s.f. [R-30])

+Class I fire safety rating*.
+No formaldehyde-based binders.
+Not made from petrochemicals nor chemicals with a high toxicity.
-Weight may cause ceilings to sag if the material is very heavy. Professional installers know how to avoid this.
-Will settle over time, losing some of its effectiveness. Unscrupulous contractors may "fluff" insulation, using fewer bags than optimal for a desired R-value. Cellulose can settle 20% of its original volume.
-Cellulose inhibits convection more effectively. In general, loose fill is seen as being better at reducing the presence of gaps in insulation than batts, as the cavity is sealed more carefully.
-May absorb moisture; mold is a potential concern.

Fiberglass batts: R-3.1 per inch ($0.70 per s.f. [R-19])

-Hazardous to lungs and skin.
-Fire rating not as good as cellulose*.
-Will not seal without additional vapor barrier.
-Does not stop radiant heat transfer.
-Loses effectiveness due to settling or compressing
-Humidity causes it to lose its effectiveness if not sealed properly.
-Acts like a sponge, absorbing water, likely to form dangerous mold.

Cotton blue jean batts: R-3.7 per inch ($1.20 per s.f. [R-19])

+Higher R-Value than typical fiberglass batts.
+Recycled content, no formaldehyde or other toxic substances.
+Fibers do not cause itchiness, no cancer risk from airborne fibers
-Difficult to cut. Some installers may charge a slightly higher cost for installation as compared to other batts.
-Even with proper installation, batts do not completely seal the cavity against air movement (as with cellulose or expanding foam).
-Requires a vapor retarder or barrier.
-May be hard to dry if a leak allows excessive moisture into the insulated cavity; mold could be a potential problem.

Open-cell soy foam: R-3.1 per inch ($1.25 to $2.25 per s.f. [R-19])
Closed-cell soy foam: R-4.11 per inch ($1.25 to $2.25 per s.f. [R-19])

+Class 1 fire rating.
+Seals a building's thermal envelope better than other insulation.
+Good for the environment.
+Fills cracks and crevices creating an airtight seal of protection.
+Reduces pollen, allergens and insulation fibers that can cause reactions.
+Resists moisture, helping to prevent mold growth.
-Higher initial investment (BUT more return on energy savings).

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: If your home was built before 1989, and if you have recessed ceiling light fixtures, chances are high that the fixtures were not manufactured to be covered by insulation. If you remodeled your home after 1989, and the electrical contractor cut holes in your ceiling to install recessed fixtures, those fixtures may not be rated to be covered by insulation. The only type of fixtures that can be covered by insulation are I.C. (insulated ceiling), a term used universally by all lighting manufacturers. If you are unsure about the type of fixtures you have, it's a good investment to pay a licensed contractor or electrician to thoroughly investigate, and do what's needed to make your home safer, i.e., remove insulation 3" away from the fixtures.

*The video in the link below was an eye-opener! Three identical houses: (1) No insulation; (2) Fiberglass batt insulation; and (3) Cellulose insulation. I wish someone would do the same test with a fourth home, insulated with soy foam.
http://www.hothomesofutah.com/ (shortened)

Other winterizing chores to consider (D-I-Y only if you're qualified!):

Check and replace caulking around windows and exterior doors, and have the doors weatherstripped.
Inspect and repair flashing at roof penetrations.
Clean all gutters and downspouts; check, repair, or replace pipes from downspouts.
Have your furnace cleaned and checked, and replace the filter (they should be replaced monthly), and remove everything close to it (especially flammable objects).
If you have an air conditioner, drain it, and turn off the water.
Replace the batteries in all smoke detectors, and install carbon monoxide detectors if you don't have them.
Have your chimney checked and cleaned, including the damper.
Have your roof checked, and repaired; check the condition of attic vents, and repair any holes.
Check your foundation, and the condition of crawl vents and sill plates; repair as needed (you don't want "critters" building their home in your home).
Drain and store garden hoses, and insulate around exposed pipes.
Acquire a fire extinguisher if you don't have one.
Remove tree limbs that are close to electrical and telephone wires.
Remove all bulbs from your garden that cannot withstand freezing temperatures, and protect other plants from cold winds and ice; "heel in" bushes and shrubs as recommended for your climate zone.
Check your emergency kit. It should contain enough supplies to last at least ten days:
- Flashlights
- Fresh batteries
- Portable radio
- Phone numbers for utility companies, family members, and neighbors
- Bottled water
- Water sterilization tablets
- Non-perishable food
- Pet food
- Animal leashes and kennels

"Winterizing" not only includes what we can do for ourselves, it should include what we can do for the homeless, the house-bound elderly and infirm. This is not a political rant; it's a plea from one human being who cares about all human beings (and "fur persons").

--o0o--

"Plesset's Principles for Today is Home" is YOUR personal information service, to help you make informed decisions about every aspect of your building or remodeling project. Send an e-mail today with your questions, or topics you'd like to read more about, to: Q@dp-design.com

IN THIS ISSUE: 'Tis the Season			Dear [dear] Life experiences for the past two months have emphasized the importance of communication and people working as a team for a common goal. Normally, I relate this to building and remodeling, but while recovering from surgery, I've been reminded that communication has a larger impact on the ultimate outcome of all medical procedures. It's SO important to ask questions, and avoid assuming that someone is going to act in your best interest. You are the only one who cares about what's in your best interest at all times, under all circumstances. I want to reassure you that the first paragraph is not going to open the conversation about medical reform, or any personal opinion. That's not the purpose of this newsletter. For several years, I've read a newsletter from someone who is well-respected in his profession, but started deleting his newsletters several weeks ago when they became political rants. I'll probably unsubscribe to his ezine, and want to tell him why, because many of his subscribers may be feeling the same way. If you feel that I ever go beyond the boundaries of "Plesset's Principles for Today's Home," please let me know. I want these newsletters to be informational, entertaining, motivational, and inspirational. I want to help you in every way possible. Like the best medical teams, building and remodeling teams rely on every member performing his or her job to the best of their ability, so the "procedure" is successful. This requires commitment to the goal and other team members, and the best possible communication. Good news to share with you! My 24/7 I.T. specialist, a.k.a. my husband (Jay), informed me earlier that our newsletter subscriptions have quadrupled, and we have a high percentage of international subscribers! It's easy for you to forward my newsletters to family, friends and business associates. We never share your information with anyone, because we respect your privacy. Send to a Friend will do it. With Inspired Ideas For Your Home,
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aaa		Plesset's Principles for Today's Home® 'TIS THE SEASON (sigh) . . . The topic of this week's newsletter was fun to write. Ready to go to Jay for distribution. Then my sister called to see how I'm recuperating. During our conversation, she mentioned a couple of things about winterizing their home. Stop the presses! Save the "decorating" topic for a future issue! Sure, winterizing isn't a fun topic, but if you have "deferred maintenance" expenses because you didn't winterize, you won't have the money to decorate. JoAnn said, "It's time to call the company to blow more insulation into the attic." Blown-in insulation is okay, but loses its effectiveness as it compacts from its own weight. Batt insulation is better, but it's still not the best solution. Both can absorb moisture from condensation and leaks, which then leads to microbial growth that can result in allergies and a sick building syndrome. My first instinct was to recommend a soy-based spray foam insulation, but I would be negligent if I misinformed her, or my valued newsletter subscribers. So, I spent several hours doing online research, to get the answer from specialists -- not just salesmen who want to sell their products and services. It's not unusual for me to have 20 or more windows open when I'm researching products. Ultimately, it led to a great, informational conversation with Chris Porter of Biobased Systems, listed in Biobased Solutions' Newsletter. They have a great website, full of valuable information: http://www.biobasedsystems.net Mr. Porter said that insulating the rafters with spray foam, in addition to other insulation that's on top of the ceiling, creates a new environment which must be treated as such. It is cheaper to blow in more cellulose. It's better, although more expensive initially, to pay a contractor to remove the old insulation, so new foam insulation can be applied. What are the advantages of soybean-based spray foam? First, let's compare the R-value, or the thermal resistance factor that determines how well a material holds back heat, then we'll compare the advantages and disadvantages, and your investment factor. Cellulose loose-fill: 0250 R-2.5 per inch ($0.50 per s.f. [R-30]) +Class I fire safety rating. +No formaldehyde-based binders. +Not made from petrochemicals nor chemicals with a high toxicity. -Weight may cause ceilings to sag if the material is very heavy. Professional installers know how to avoid this. -Will settle over time, losing some of its effectiveness. Unscrupulous contractors may "fluff" insulation, using fewer bags than optimal for a desired R-value. Cellulose can settle 20% of its original volume. -Cellulose inhibits convection more effectively. In general, loose fill is seen as being better at reducing the presence of gaps in insulation than batts, as the cavity is sealed more carefully. -May absorb moisture; mold is a potential concern. 0310 Fiberglass batts: R-3.1 per inch ($0.70 per s.f. [R-19]) -Hazardous to lungs and skin. -Fire rating not as good as cellulose. -Will not seal without additional vapor barrier. -Does not stop radiant heat transfer. -Loses effectiveness due to settling or compressing -Humidity causes it to lose its effectiveness if not sealed properly. -Acts like a sponge, absorbing water, likely to form dangerous mold. Cotton blue jean batts: R-3.7 per inch ($1.20 per s.f. [R-19]) +Higher R-Value than typical fiberglass batts. +Recycled content, no formaldehyde or other toxic substances. +Fibers do not cause itchiness, no cancer risk from airborne fibers -Difficult to cut. Some installers may charge a slightly higher cost for installation as compared to other batts. -Even with proper installation, batts do not completely seal the cavity against air movement (as with cellulose or expanding foam). -Requires a vapor retarder or barrier. -May be hard to dry if a leak allows excessive moisture into the insulated cavity; mold could be a potential problem. Open-cell soy foam: R-3.1 per inch ($1.25 to $2.25 per s.f. [R-19]) Closed-cell soy foam: R-4.11 per inch ($1.25 to $2.25 per s.f. [R-19]) +Class 1 fire rating. +Seals a building's thermal envelope better than other insulation. +Good for the environment. +Fills cracks and crevices creating an airtight seal of protection. +Reduces pollen, allergens and insulation fibers that can cause reactions. +Resists moisture, helping to prevent mold growth. -Higher initial investment (BUT more return on energy savings). IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: If your home was built before 1989, and if you have recessed ceiling light fixtures, chances are high that the fixtures were not manufactured to be covered by insulation. If you remodeled your home after 1989, and the electrical contractor cut holes in your ceiling to install recessed fixtures, those fixtures may not be rated to be covered by insulation. The only type of fixtures that can be covered by insulation are I.C. (insulated ceiling), a term used universally by all lighting manufacturers. If you are unsure about the type of fixtures you have, it's a good investment to pay a licensed contractor or electrician to thoroughly investigate, and do what's needed to make your home safer, i.e., remove insulation 3" away from the fixtures. *The video in the link below was an eye-opener! Three identical houses: (1) No insulation; (2) Fiberglass batt insulation; and (3) Cellulose insulation. I wish someone would do the same test with a fourth home, insulated with soy foam. http://www.hothomesofutah.com/ (shortened) Other winterizing chores to consider (D-I-Y only if you're qualified!): Check and replace caulking around windows and exterior doors, and have the doors weatherstripped. Inspect and repair flashing at roof penetrations. Clean all gutters and downspouts; check, repair, or replace pipes from downspouts. Have your furnace cleaned and checked, and replace the filter (they should be replaced monthly), and remove everything close to it (especially flammable objects). If you have an air conditioner, drain it, and turn off the water. Replace the batteries in all smoke detectors, and install carbon monoxide detectors if you don't have them. Have your chimney checked and cleaned, including the damper. Have your roof checked, and repaired; check the condition of attic vents, and repair any holes. Check your foundation, and the condition of crawl vents and sill plates; repair as needed (you don't want "critters" building their home in your home). Drain and store garden hoses, and insulate around exposed pipes. Acquire a fire extinguisher if you don't have one. Remove tree limbs that are close to electrical and telephone wires. Remove all bulbs from your garden that cannot withstand freezing temperatures, and protect other plants from cold winds and ice; "heel in" bushes and shrubs as recommended for your climate zone. Check your emergency kit. It should contain enough supplies to last at least ten days: Flashlights Fresh batteries Portable radio Phone numbers for utility companies, family members, and neighbors Bottled water Water sterilization tablets Non-perishable food Pet food Animal leashes and kennels "Winterizing" not only includes what we can do for ourselves, it should include what we can do for the homeless, the house-bound elderly and infirm. This is not a political rant; it's a plea from one human being who cares about all human beings (and "fur persons"). --o0o-- "Plesset's Principles for Today is Home" is YOUR personal information service, to help you make informed decisions about every aspect of your building or remodeling project. Send an e-mail today with your questions, or topics you'd like to read more about, to: Q@dp-design.com
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		ABOUT DIANE Diane established D. P. Design in April of 1984, to help homeowners, like you, achieve the best building and remodeling experience with her personalized consulting, design services, seminars, articles, and books. She is a homeowner advocate, an award-winning designer and author, and former co-host of a weekly radio program. "Plesset's Principles for Today's Home®" is another avenue for Diane to express her passion for helping people, using her God-given talents, education, and experience to provide "Inspired Ideas for Your Home®". She is one of about 150 designers in the United States with multiple certifications as a Master Kitchen-Bath Designer, Interior Designer, and Aging-in-Place Specialist. Diane can help you achieve your building or remodeling goals, using state-of-the-art computer aided drafting software ("Archicad"). To request more information, visit Diane's website, or send an e-mail to Diane: Q@dp-design.com. You are welcome to share this newsletter. We request that you copy and paste it in its entirety, including Diane's bio.
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		DIANE PLESSET, CMKBD, NCIDQ #13029, C.A.P.S. D. P. DESIGN P.O. Box 1132 Oregon City, OR. 97045 IF YOU WISH TO STOP RECEIVING THESE E-MAILS, REPLY WITH "UNSUBSCRIBE" IN THE SUBJECT LINE © 2009 D. P. Design - All Rights Reserved
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